Khidr- Interesting learnings about Aya Sofia, Istanbul

Reading about Islam, the concept of Khidr, an immortal spirit that can travel great distances and manifest in different forms; one that’s been identified as the servant of God in the Quran and linked to a companion of Moses was a revelation to me!

Firstly, I was intrigued that it's similar to the Hindu concept of one central immortal spirit and secondly, that it is deeply woven into Christian and Islamic psyche too; deep enough to influence the construction and decor of the monumental Aya Sofia and other important structures with such unwavering faith and devotion.

All those who have already done a trip to Turkey, please find a reason to go back at least to Istanbul to reexamine this spirit at work! It was an absolutely stunning read about the developments, so I am going back!

When Constantinople (present-day Istanbul) was run over by Ottomans (Muslim Turks) In 1453, the sultan then, Mehmet II established Istanbul as the capital, moving away from Edirne and was faced with the task of rebuilding the church of Aya Sofia built by the Byzantine (Roman) rulers. As per the account of Mehmet II’s biographer, Ottoman writers studied the earlier manuscripts to figure out about the construction and the aura around Aya Sofia. They then wrote their accounts in which Muslim martyrs, heroes were mentioned. But in all the reads and writes about the awe of Aya Sofia, the central figure of the enigmatic Khidr was given pride of place, in the choice of location and the final form.

The biographer of the first Ottoman ruler, Mehmet II, writes that the Khidr had urged Justinian, the Byzantine emperor to build the church at this site, slated to be the site of an ancient temple to show the victory of Christianity (the Romans) over paganism (indigenous polytheistic practices of the place run over). And that the plan of this great church was revealed to Khidr and handed over to the architect.

The special majestic qualities and sacred status of Aya Sofia made it very difficult to transform it into a church and a later date into a mosque. Both Romans and Ottomans believed Aya Sofia to be divinely inspired. This inspired some of the mosaics in certain key places inside the church. The doorway in the south-west vestibule which was used for processions during Byzantine rule has an important mosaic of the Virgin and Child with Justinian and Constantine. Constantine holds a model of the city of Constantinople while Justinian offers a miniature Aya Sofia to the Mother of God. Yet another inspired mosaic showing innate respect to the higher power in the construction of Aya Sofia is located above the central door leading to the main nave which shows an unnamed emperor bowing to an enthroned Christ.

This architectural triumph of Aya Sofia was built over an older religious construction that was built here after the Nika riots of 532 AD. It was a symbol of a double victory of Christianity and the Byzantine empire.

And yes, its not just Babri Masjid that we need to be fighting and killing each other over. Most holy places that were run over by another tribe/ clan of different faith, each of them definitely felt the need to redefine the older religious structure and make it relevant to their faith. This, so that the reestablishment of the now new faith is made easier, and transformation from the earlier faith becomes easier for people who have long been worshipping at the place, either reluctantly or by force now. Climb upto the fort at Lonavala and find a makbara on top is just one of such example. But let me emphasize this- whatever the faith of the victor, deep down faith, respect and an innate fear of God ensures that the central sanctum sanctorum was never disturbed. That was considered to unleash the wrath of God.

The non metropolitan break

Not intended to put off the reader or with any deliberate intention to sound bombastic, the above title is a rare experience in the lives of any resident of metros who's fallen the trap of the daily rigour.

Reads: A break for the mind is the best break. Oh! That was exactly my thought!

As my train leaves the Chennai metro and rushes out up and westwards from spanning the entire width of the Deccan and chugging its way up and around the eastern and western ghats to Lonavala, I am surprised afresh even after doing the length for over 8 years in the past.

Greeen! So green. No Camera could capture

that verdant a green- nature's flourish!

The myriad of old heritage, and new swanky and untidy constructions are left behind and the eyes and the heart are elated at the sights of dispersed, low rise, a handful of houses interspersed with large expanses of greens. Abetted with a few passing showers from a few days before, it is a simple, earthy delight to see the dull, cloudy skies with a cool breeze and to actually be able to see crops swaying in the winds. A rare sight along any of my regular routes to work, play, gym or recreation-movies and malls!

I feel so small and uninformed when I wonder at the occupation, education, entertainment options of folks whose houses and towns rush past. I learn that the national electric grid is owned, run and maintained by the Central Government from a short distance traveller in my coach. I use multiple electronic devices, work in highly overcooled offices pushing for an ISO certification, always use air-conditioned vehicles to navigate the city, curse when power
cuts happen due to rains, winds and lightning, and swear at electricity officials who don't turn up to set it right. Yet the same rains in vast verdant fields lightens my heart and I feel small for not knowing where all the power I consume comes from or who works hard to provide that to me.

Well, it was time a fantastic time to learn basic, oft-ignored basic information from new folks I met while soaking in the freshness of the greens.

Hail Tourism

A small, pleasant town, sleeping in on their last day of fasting on the occasion of Ramadan and looking forward to Eid celebrations late night and inch back to the regular schedule of eating, sleeping and working was really heartening to see.

A landmark roundabout in Hail town

As a tourist this quaint town attracted me in the convenience it accords, with all major supermarkets, local date and vegetable markets, simple souls and traditional handicrafts available within the main area of the town centre. Typical old town areas congested in the evening with shoppers and families looking for an evening out.

But as a tourist and having informed myself of the multitudes of treasures of history at the location and my excitement built up knowing that these are treasures from more than 9500 years ago, the simplicity, quaintness of folks was very inconvenient.

A long 250 km drive from Hail city up to a much publicised volcanic site- Harrat ithnayn ( about 140km SW of Hail) was a complete confusion with no indication, directions, or any boards with the location marked. It was just a huge expanse of volcanic material on the ground. What was appalling was after enquiring with many or almost any soul on the road, everyone is jinxed, completely unaware of such a site! It was not just the language, having to converse in Arabic; I had an Arabic English conversant person on board. The local people had no information, awareness, knowledge, that apparently stems from no immediate need or inquisitiveness to know about these national treasures. The appalling apathy was shocking for someone like me who has seen the pride and possessiveness of locals in historical locations worldwide, be it Egypt, Africa, Finland, USA, Europe or South-East Asian countries.

Vast volcanic ash expanse

Understandably, the SCTA has a huge task ahead in protecting, researching, documenting, creating awareness among locals in the area and advertising/publicising them to encourage touristic curiosity in locals as expats in the region. Meanwhile a good move would be to involve, inform, train local people in the areas of historical finds, to understand and take pride in them, which would be a good start. History buffs like me, and several expats living in Saudi could help volunteer with government departments, and experts working to collate and publicize such discoveries.

My voluntary services are available to KSA tourism department for use! Thanks!

Trip from the First (Al Awwal) street to the Edge of the World in a day!

An apprehensive morning's start, armed with a lot of food and water considering it was a Friday and most stores would be off the first half, ended a really rewarded one. The trip to the "Edge of the World" or "Aakhiri Duniya" as it is referred to by folks near the place, was a little scary....we'd already tried it in our Accord 3 years ago, knew we needed a 4-wheel drive to beat the sandy patches, and were aware of presence of local mujahideen who were pointed by our jeep driver the last time, though he never did take us to the right place then! As simpler, easier-to-please persons those days, we had nice picnic fun that day and got back home happy and warmed up in the wintry sunshine.

A lot of better information, a trial trip on the main road the previous weekend and exchange with locals in the area later, we set out bravely yesterday on our trip, in finding the edge of the world. Amusingly as a friend noted, the first main road we set out on was the "Al Awwal" or "The first" (technically, Prince Turki bin Abdulaziz Al Awwal Road) street of Riyadh, and were somewhat apprehensively wondering if we'd make it to the right location- The Edge of the World, this time round. It was a welcome humour to the mild trepidation of the morning- the first to the last!

As the wheels lowered off the main road, one could feel a carful of doubt at the uncertainty ahead. Beaten and thumped around on bumpy patches and sensing the rear wheels zipping uncontrollably in sandy patches, we covered the entire distance in half an hour though it seemed like it took forever to reach! Faster, more experienced drivers-of-the-sands had reached there, so we could find out final spot to rest the car and stretch out jilted bones! A nice breakfast of hot idlis, sambhar and tea prepping ourselves for walking the rough terrain, we set out with our cameras, water and sugary treats in case it gets too tiring on the way back.

At each stage of the climb or walk the next leg looked dangerously narrow and close to the edge until you got there and assured yourself that it's actually not so bad. We must have climbed up and legged a good 3-4 km rightwards after reaching the top. Each stop was astonishing and views absolutely so happiness-satiating, one would feel so close to nature and the impossibility of nature's creation! Clearly, years of rains, water and wind activity had cut out semi-circular ranges of mountains with water basins between them. Each ridge of all the mountain faces intricately carved out looking like as though artists hung and decorated them! Reminded me of stories of how Michael Angelo hung off the roof and painted the domes, walls and niches of the Sistine Chapel. Only, here it was sheer, deep faces of entire mountain ranges spanning as-far-as-eyes-could-see kind of distances intricately carved out over the centuries by nature!

Setting out from home at 7am, it was 10 am when we took off the main road into the sands towards the Edge of the World, and finally piqued, exhilarated and exhausted with almost-broken-bones, we climbed back onto the main road at 3pm, washed at the petrol pump and picnicked at a local farm, caught a short leg-stretched-out nap and headed back to main town Riyadh reaching at 6pm.


Directions: Arouba road, onto King Khaled Road 535 N, get off at the Jubayla junction and 30 kms from there, even before the Sadus town, where you see some pipelines being laid and a sandy incline built upto the ridge on your right, get off onto the sand, drive a good 7 kms to reach the rangers tent, take the car into their borders and then drive a rough patch for a good 22kms keeping largely to the right at all doubtful forks. Leaving early morning is advisable to be able to deal with any uncertainties, car troubles and managing to leave the rangers premises before 6pm when they close the entrance. And yes, a ton of water, a lot of food, and emptying out our system systematically before leaving and after reaching the main, paved highways of Riyadh. Needless to say, there are no washrooms in the entire 30 kms stretch of unpaved road on the approach to the Edge of the World, and you have the challenge of several hours of climbing up and down, and walking narrow patches of mountainsides involved.

Happy, soul-filling views!

Qasaba and towers, delving into Arabic semantics at Al Baha, Saudi Arabia

Familiar with these terms from homework on this green region of Saudi Arabia, I set out pursuing my curiosity. The area with a 1000 small towers called "Qasaba" in Arabic, left me clambering to click away at these, not- so- tall towers dotting the mountainscape, pursuing them hoping to find one on any main road so I could go closer and enter. 

In over 2 hours' rounds, I found one approachable. Clearly, they are shaped like a tower, four slanting walls, narrowing at the top; a lookout window of sorts, and a drainage system for the roof. A walk around showed no entry door into it at all! My mind raced, inquisitiveness piqued, imagining myself having a discussion about it a local Arabic elder in my broken Arabic sentences. Was fun.

Besides, while I did see several on mountain tops, many were at road level too. So that beats the watchtower concept.

I did read that it could have been a granary...then why the window, and how did they get stuff inside? Looking to friends and interested folks to add in any which way they can; ideally, inputs from Arabic elders would be great.

Thanks.

When Nouns go missing in English

English spelling mistakes world over are most often hilarious, as we’ve all seen in forwards from friends on mail and FB, and while travelling in developing countries in non-English speaking areas. But missing out nouns in naming organization, shops, and institutes tops it all!

A Noun is imperative in naming someone, somewhere or something, and it becomes unique to that person, place or thing. Imagine if the Sahara Desert, Kalahari Desert, Arabian desert had been named with descriptors (Adjectives) instead of names, as, say, for example, ‘Deep’ desert, ‘wide’ desert, ‘vast’ desert- how would our children remember which is which, without a name like ‘Sahara’, ‘Kalahari’. Any desert can be deep, wide, vast!

Just hilarious thoughts- laugh for good health!

SMC- Specialized Medical Center

Ahem! Well, if I were to go to any medical center for checkup and treatment, they’d better be ‘specialized’! Adjectives replace Nouns.

Education International Schools

I thought all ‘schools’ are meant to provide ‘education’, huh?! What is the name of your organization? Common nouns replace Proper nouns.

So much for serious stuff, relax with the frequent fun-

Binrushed- poor guy, everybody, please let him chill! I understand it is the name in Arabic of a great person, but it doesn’t transliterate into English! Incidentally, Ibn Rushd is one of the most noteworthy Muslims; highly educated and wrote several books and summarized a lot of Greek literature for Muslim Caliphs.

TOI Restaurant- Move over ‘Times of India’ (TOI), we are the ‘Taste of India’ (TOI) in Arabia!

New Store opening- You know a new store is opening when you see limp, coloured plastics bubbling up, ballooned figure standing around and/or a roving light is sending circles into the air!

Faux Pas- Did you know sweets have IQ?! I didn't. Apostrophe upside down. And wrongly used- remember only one sweet has IQ, not the others!



Huh! As in, I can 'feel free' and help myself to any of the stuff in your store? Hey thanks!

Clearly, just funny rejoinders from a fun heart to make a few peoples' heads lighter.

No malice or any deliberate intention to hurt or defame anyone. Please take it as a joke, change if you want to make things better, but do definitely laugh!

A relaxed day and a happy kid later

The Riyadh Zoo was a real treat the other day when we relaxed there and came back feeling happy and satisfied that we had one really ecstatic and contended kid on hand. Of course, as an adult, I was happy I had included a few animal names to the kid's vocab.

The Riyad Zoo's conception and maintenance are indeed commendable. A large area with adequate parking, places to sit, an impressionable range of animals and birds to view. Some cages could be bigger and better is also a feeling that crept up through the day, but the effort and maintenance, except for the ignorance and throwing of plastics in the zoo by the less-informed visitors, is really good.

The zoo is best visited in winter months as viewing the entire area can take up to 2-3 hours to just identify and see the whole compound and is a simple way to introduce animals and birds to children.

Planning the visit becomes easy with the website, except for any unexpected, local functions/ occasions. http://www.zoo.com.sa/riyadhzoo/map/

A very impressive collection! A good, cool afternoon well spent: ideally 12 noon- Magrib. And we walk away contented with a thrilled child!

Savour, Enjoy!